Days 16-21 (March 22 – 27, 2019)
Bali has always been on my bucket list of places to visit. It’s a relatively long and expensive flight from New York so it always seemed to get pushed off for other trips. Being that we were already in Australia and Bali was only a 2 hour and 50 minute flight, it seemed like the perfect time to finally tick it off of my bucket list. Reading about Bali and speaking with others who had visited, I imagined Bali to be an upscale tropical paradise. In my head, I envisioned a much nicer, prettier version of Cancun.
Ultimately, Bali isn’t quite as nice as Cancun or some of the other places in Mexico and throughout the Caribbean, but there is a ton of variety so it can appeal to almost any kind of traveler.
Those looking to decompress, relax, and be pampered should splurge for a beach resort in Seminyak, Canggu (pronounced Changgu), or Kuta. Those seeking a more cultural, slower paced holiday, opt for Ubud or one of the surrounding areas and stay in a peaceful mountain side villa, see the rice-terraces, and visit the numerous temples and coffee plantations that dot the island. Finally, those interested in a more adventurous vacation can plan day trips to Mount Batur, surf in Padang Padang, fly to the Gili islands for a day of diving and ziplining. Ultimately, Bali is what you make of it.
At first, I wasn’t a huge fan of Bali, but it grew on me as we stayed longer and got used to it.
We stayed for six days and got a little anxious to leave by the end of it. Since we just started our trip around-the-world, we weren’t really looking to relax just yet. Six days is probably enough time for the normal traveler, but for those combining it with a trip to nearby destinations like Hong Kong or Singapore, four or five days would be sufficient.
Arrival
Landing in Denpasar is a bit of a whirlwind and a stark contrast to landing in many other airports we visited around the world. After exiting the mildly air-conditioned customs area, travelers are slapped in the face with a rush of warm, humid Balinese air. A sea of taxi drivers await, each yelling repeatedly “Hello — taxi, taxi, taxi. Where are you going?” If you are unaccompanied, the drivers will relentlessly follow you until one side finally relents. At first, we felt intimidated, unsafe, and a little terrified.
Now that we’re on the other side of it, we came realize that Balinese people are very genuine, kind-hearted, and good intentioned. That doesn’t mean one should not be on guard. Fellow travelers have written about taxi drivers increasing the prices during a trip, inflating prices, or hoping in what they believed to be an official, metered “Bluebird” cab (the local taxi service) to find out that it was a fake. We used Grab (which is one of Bali’s versions of Uber and you should definitely download before visiting any country in Southeast Asia). It’s a little more confusing and not as user-friendly, but guarantees a safe and legitimate ride. After a few minutes of struggling to find our driver, we were on our way to our first Airbnb.
The streets of Denpasar are packed with mopeds. The lines on the road are meaningless.
Maintaining a lane seems to be the exception rather than the rule, with moped drivers weaving recklessly in between cars, trucks, and vans. Their compact size and maneuverability allow them to get by more quickly, wresting control as “rulers of the road.”
Bunches of heavy power lines sag from above, drooping like loose ropes above side walks, almost reaching face level. (We’d later learn that we’d be dodging power lines as we walked around Seminyak). Watching the map to make sure the driver was taking the right route, I sat back in my seat and breathed out a slight sigh of relief. In that moment, it finally felt like we had begun our travels. Up until that point, we’d been relatively comfortable; traveling in English speaking countries and familiar cities. Realistically, Bali will hardly be the most challenging country we visit. As tourism plays a dominate role in the economy, the majority of locals speak a least some English and all the necessary infrastructure exists to support the influx of tourists. Yet, the foreignness of it all still provided us with that magical feeling of travel we craved whilst traveling throughout New Zealand and Australia.
Forty-five minutes later, we arrived at our villa in Seminyak and settled in for the night, excited to finally be in Bali.
Seminyak
Days 1-2
Seminyak is one of the most popular areas of Bali, known for its upscale beach resorts, shopping, and restaurants. We booked a beautiful villa with massive ceilings, beautiful wood doors, and a private pool all fortified with a large concrete wall around the property. Not to mention that a lovely Balinese woman, Made, took care of us and cooked us breakfast in the morning. All for only about $100/night. It was a pretty sweet deal.
When we left the villa, the veil of luxury was quickly lifted. Knowing the reputation of Seminyak, we were surprised when we left our villa to see crumbling roads and buildings, store fronts selling bootlegs of D&G, LV, Nike, Prada, etc., and “warungs” that were open-air tin structures with dilapidated chairs and tables and a straw roofs. Sidewalks were either sunken in or non-existent. It was a far throw from what I would consider luxury. We later learned that we stayed a bit off the beaten path from the main area of Seminyak so it was a bit grungier. Even the main areas on Jl. Kayu Aya and Jl. Raya Basangkasa were still a bit grungy, but definitely better maintained.
The real luxury in Seminyak exists at the beach front resorts and private villas. We stopped by The W one evening for a cocktail. The hotel is opulent and extravagant. With a number of bars and restaurants, a sprawling pool area with multiple pools, a small stretch of beach, and private villas set off from the main hotel, this is sort of what I pictured when I thought about Bali.
At over $400 a night, it’s not particularly affordable. The beach was dirty and littered with trash and the surf was too rough for people to swim. Guests opted to lay by the pool rather than the beach. In fact, unlike other resort areas I’ve visited, there weren’t beach chairs and umbrellas set up on the beach for people to lounge. Not to mention that before entering the resort from the beach, security guards stand by with wands and conduct a security check on everyone entering the resort (which makes it feels a bit seedy… but at least you’re safe I guess?).
Ultimately, Seminyak is what visitors make of it. For those looking for something more luxurious, one of the high-end beach resorts may be the right option. Otherwise, a private villa is a nice option for a quieter, more intimate and private trip. Either way, there isn’t a ton to do in Seminyak itself so expect to spend your time in Seminyak relaxing by the pool, going to brunch at Instagram worthy eateries, getting an unnecessary amount of massages, and eating at upscale restaurants for dinner. Check out some of the places where we ate during out time in Bali here.
Ubud
Days 3-6
Ubud is even slower than Seminyak. Located in the mountains of Bali, Ubud became famous partly thanks to Julia Roberts and Eat. Pray. Love. Now, hipsters flock there for raw vegan or vegetarian food, yogis visit because they incorrectly think yoga originated here — even though yoga is not traditionally Balinese — and others come just to clear their minds and relax.
We found another great villa located in the forest, perched on the side of a small mountain that overlooked a rice terrace. It was a great, quiet escape from everything. Make sure to reserve early as villas tend to book-up fast. For those interested in being able to leave their accommodations and walk to cafes and restaurants, opt for accommodation in the center of Ubud. The villas tend to be a bit of a drive and you’ll need someone to take you (or be brave enough to rent a moped and drive yourself).
The proximity of Ubud to other parts of the island makes it a popular base to use as a jumping off spot for day trips. Even though Bali is small, the roads are built around mountains so it takes awhile to get places. Below are some of the things we did during our time in Ubud.
Stroll around Ubud
Ubud covers a large area, but there’s a central “downtown” where you’ll find all of the restaurants, bars, cafes, and shops. It’s not very long and it gets rather packed as the streets are narrow and there are only a few ways in and out. Our driver told us that during peak time traffic can be so bad that the drive to get from the top of the mountain to the center of town that usually takes 10 minutes can take up to 2 hours. The shops generally sell knick-knacks or clothing (there were about 20 Ralph Lauren Polo shops which I find highly suspect…). A half a day is plenty to see the whole town, but if you’re staying in a villa, breaking it up each time you go in for dinner is probably a better plan.
Visit the Monkey Forest
Ubud | 80,000 IDR | Open Daily 8:30a – 5:30p
At the bottom of the center of the town of Ubud, you’ll find the famous monkey forest. This was the highlight of our time in Ubud. Entrance costs 80,000 IDR (~$5.71 USD).
Populated with more than 700 Balinese long-tailed monkeys, the sacred monkey forest was believed to have been created in the 14th Century and also contains three Hindu temples. Before going, we read about the dangers of the monkey forest and were a bit turned off. The monkeys can be quite aggressive, stealing food, water, cameras, and other objects from tourists. There are signs warning visitors not to look the monkeys in the eyes directly as they take this as a sign of aggression and are likely to attack. If scratched or bitten, affected visitors will have to go to the hospital for a rabies shot. Aside from all of that, we thought it would be a massive tourist trap that we would hate. Surprisingly, it was one of the coolest, most unique things we’ve down so far. We went at 5:15pm, just before the park closed at 6pm. As a result, the park was relatively empty which I think made for a more enjoyable experience. We thought that we would breeze through in 45 minutes, but after getting there, we wish we had given ourselves more time!
Before even entering the park, monkeys cover the path, waiting to greet visitors. Inside the park, monkeys were seriously EVERYWHERE. They lounge all around forest, totally unfazed by people. I was surprised at how uncomfortably close some people got to take selfies, but the monkeys just ignored them. Staff members were present to make sure visitors were safe and to feed the monkeys sweet potatoes to keep them distracted and satiated. As we walked around the forest we were able to see the monkeys go about their daily lives, grooming each other, sleeping, feeding their babies, fighting over territory, and even flossing. Don’t be dissuaded by the reviews. Overall, it was definitely worth it – just don’t act like a fool and you should be fine.
Visit the Rice Terraces
Tegallalang | 10,000 IDR | Open 24 Hours
The Tegallalang rice terraces are located about 25 minutes outside of Ubud. These terraces were built using the traditional subak created by the Balinese people. This area is protected by UNESCO in order to preserve this endangered method of cultivating rice.
Developed in the 9th Century, subak is an irrigation system developed to grow rice. This system helped Bali become the most successful rice growing island in the Indonesian archipelago. Despite its success, the method of growing rice is being abandoned because it is no longer sufficient to sustain the swelling population of Bali. Consequently, farmers have turned to more productive methods.
The rice terraces are truly impressive. They are lush, vibrantly green, and spread across the sweeping mountain landscape of Tegallalang. In order to gain entry, visitors are required to make a donation of 10000 IDR (~$0.71 USD). There are some pathways marked for walking, but visitors are free to roam along the terraces. Since the terraces are independently owned, there will be “checkpoints” along the way when entering a different farmer’s terrace. Someone will be waiting with a donation box and will not let you pass unless you give another “donation”. Keep small bills or coins if you plan on roaming about, but beware that the sun is strong and it’s incredibly humid. Plan to spend a half hour to an hour.
See a Coffee Plantation and drink Luwak Coffee
Tegallalang | Free
A tour of the rice terraces and temples usually involves a coffee plantation. We hired the driver from our villa to take us on a private tour to a few spots. We told him we didn’t want to go, but he decided for us that we were going anyway. The coffee plantations in Bali are just giant tourist traps, luring people in with the famous luwak. For those asking, “WTF is a luwak?!?”, a luwak is an animal indigenous to Indonesia that feeds off of coffee plants, supposedly selected only the best, ripest coffee fruits. The luwak is unable to digest the beans and passes the undigested beans when it poops. Farmers then collect the poop, wash it thoroughly, roast it, and then make coffee with it. Since the luwak chooses the best beans and because the luwak eats certain parts of the coffee fruit that aren’t normally stripped away in the roasting process, the coffee brewed from these beans is supposedly superior to other coffees. Sounds delicious, right?
The plantations usually have a luwak in a cage and a few coffee plants, show visitors the process by which they cultivate the luwak coffee, and then try to lure people into buying a tasting of a cup of luwak coffee for around $5. Thanks, but no thanks.
Gunung Kawi Temple
Tegallalang | Rp15,000 | Open: 7:00a – 6:00p
Located in Tegallalang about 15 minutes north of the Tegallalang rice terraces, the Gunung Kawi Temple is a Hindu temple dating back to the 11th-Century.
Considering when it was built, the temple is pretty impressive. The temple itself is set down in a valley and is surrounded by cliffs and overlooking the Pakerisan River. In the cliffs, the creators carved ten 23ft shrines.
The main temple is located in the center of the shrines. With the sound of the waterfalls rushing into the river in the background, the entire temple is a very serene, relaxing place.
Wanderphil Tip: Go early in the day to beat the heat as there are a fair number of stairs to climb to reach the temple. You’ll also need to cover your legs so either wear pants, bring a cover, or they’ll let you borrow a cover at the entrance. They’ll be a number of people attempting to sell you sarongs leading up to the temple, but ignore them unless you would like to purchase one.